Meeting new(-to-me) cousins

From Borås we headed west to Goteborg, and then back out a short commuter-hop to Partille. I’ve long heard of the existence of relatives from my father’s side who live in Sweden, but this was the first time I’ve had a chance to get out to the west side of the country to meet them. We had a lovely visit — it was like finding long-lost family!

Udo is a newly retired journalist, about the age of my aunt Rasma, and his son Alexander is about to start his third year at university in London studying psychology. (Udo’s brother Peter is about my dad’s age; they were childhood penpals and have met a couple of times since.) If I have this right, Udo’s dad mom and my grandma were first cousins, which makes Udo my second cousin once removed (syssling bort när?).

Their apartment is only a couple minutes’ walk from the train station, a super-convenient location, while also a pleasing one with a beautiful green view out the back balcony. We were welcomed with a yummy midday dinner and spent a few cordial hours visiting and seeing a little of Partille. We all hiked the short way up to the top of the nearby bluff to see out over the town and point out some local landmarks.

It was a little bit of a hit-and-run visit, since we opted to travel all the way to the hostel in our next town on that same evening rather than uprooting ourselves on more consecutive days. But I’m looking forward to next time — either when I get a chance to visit Goteborg for real, or when Udo comes out to Uppland to see a concert at ESI, or both. Plus now I have another friend to visit in London.

(Still fussing with photo gallery options. Maybe this simple way isn’t any more annoying than the other?)

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Borås: the friendly west coast

(pics first for now, until i figure out how to conjure a polite display behavior from this thing)

Ramnakyrkan from the outside

Image 1 of 8

It happened like this: last summer Ingrid & Thomas flew to the US to teach Swedish dances at NFF (Scandi music/dance camp in NH), and they invited everyone to join them this summer in Borås for the special annual events that their town was hosting this year. So I wrote to them a few months ago and said, really?, and they said, yup! They were actually the core of the organizing team that put together the uppspelning and riksspelmansstämma for this year — a week of medal-testing, concerts and workshops, finishing off with a big open festival of a Sunday — so they were already crazily overextended, but they graciously (if improbably) added the hosting of US visitors to their agenda. We so enjoyed our time with them!

Highlights in Borås:

  • Concerts! Because this week was focused on musicians who have been awarded their silver medal to become riksspelmän, the caliber of the concert programs was stellar. We especially enjoyed lunchtime concerts by Pontus Estling (clarinet, harmonica, Swedish bagpipes), and a silverbas-harpa and fiddle duo whose names do not appear to be listed anywhere. The Fri and Sat evenings each featured concerts with a sort of panel of rikspelmän who are local to Borås — mostly each person played solo but a few also combined into duos, and there was one especially rewarding trio of nyckelharpa, clarinet, and bass clarinet. Sadly my camera ran out of battery right around then, but Mills did get a couple of audio clips.
  • Learning more about the uppspelning! Which, it happens, will be hosted next June in Tobo. So I am now thinking seriously about aiming to “spel upp” on both instruments next year.
  • Buskspel and meeting musicians! I had somehow not noticed ahead of time that Sexdrega is only about a half-hour from Borås, which means all the great tunes from there are local! Also some entertaining instrument hacks — a 5-string fiddle with 4 sympathetic strings,  a 4-string with 6 sympathetics. And, I met Tage Larsson and played on one of his harpas for a while, liked it a lot — good workmanship, some sensible innovations in design.
  • The Borås musem! We were on their grounds, but I only got to see a tiny fraction of their indoor collection. Including their bog woman from the late 17th c., with interesting notes about the remains of her clothing and shoes.

Also, I now have both a Swedish phone number and a new adopted Dad: Thomas stepped in as my guardian so I’d be eligible for a phone plan by subscription rather than just prepaid card.

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Well-rounded first day

We had a bit of extra drama getting onto the train from Arlanda to Tobo. It all seemed perfectly straightforward until I needed an extra 30 seconds to tuck something back into my pack, which problem I discovered just as the train pulled to a stop in the station. Mills gathered his stuff, went to the train door, looked back to make sure I was with him, and stepped onto the train. And just as I was following him, the train door closed! We each tried pushing the door-open button, and also each nearly managed to lose a limb. It turned out the conductor who was standing in the doorway one car down had decided I must not be planning to board after all, so he’d pushed the close-door button, and he didn’t have a door-open button. So he waved me down to the next car, assured me that one of us could switch cars at the next stop, and appeared unworried that Mills was carrying both tickets. He also phoned his compatriot in Mills’s car, but evidently she had about as much English as Mills does Swedish, so he was unable for a couple of minutes to discern whether I was on the train or still back on the platform.

Train travel times: Arlanda to Uppsala takes only 20 minutes, and continuing from there on to Tobo is only another 31 minutes. We aren’t sure where we acquired the expectation of longer times.

Tobo Station

Tobo Station

Although the Institute is only a 20-minute walk from the train “station” (which consists of a concrete platform on either side of the tracks, each featuring a bus-stop sort of shelter), we didn’t want to brave the trek with all our bulky gear. Håkan graciously offered to pick us up, and then he showed us around.

We toured the dorm building (the single-story yellow building you’ve seen in our video) and then the main building, with kitchen and dining hall and dance hall and concert room downstairs, woodworking shop and classrooms and offices upstairs. We met Nina, who was setting to rights all the dorm rooms after a large class came through last week; Stina, who runs the kitchen; Maria, the director; and Kerstin, Maria’s predecessor who was visiting. Everyone was very kind and welcoming, gracious about my attempts at Swedish, though we did conduct most of the tour in English. I was pleased to see that we have quite a number of comfortable lounge sorts of rooms for gathering, and the dorm building’s kitchen is equipped sort of as a pair of kitchens facing each other, one with dining table, the other with comfy chairs and coffee table. I should be reporting all this with photos, but you’ll have to wait a bit for those.

My big excursion for the afternoon was a grocery run to Tierp (one stop away by train, a 6-minute ride). Håkan had supplied me with a 10-ride regional train travel card, and Lane had alerted me to the fact that each punch of the card is good for 90 minutes, which is enough for a round-trip. I hadn’t gotten around to figuring out ahead of time where in town to look for a grocery store, but a minimal amount of wandering took me to a posted map and thence to the Coop Consum that sounded familiar.

waiting for the train

waiting for the train


catching the train to Tierp

catching the train to Tierp

The first sight to catch my eye, from the bakery cases at the entrance, was a tray of slices of prinsesstårta (princess torte), my favorite! I inquired and ascertained how much they cost (25 SEK), figuring I’d add one in at the end of my shopping if my totals all worked out well. Then at the check-out I had a lengthy confused conversation (mostly she talked and I looked puzzled) with a clerk who first seemed to be charging me for an entire cake, but then even after we seemed to be agreeing on a single slice, her number was still confusingly high. Eventually she came out with a figure that seemed to make sense, and I managed to pay (my debit MC seems to work in retail machines, my credit Visa seems not to, and neither worked in an attempted online transaction this morning) — but then once I got on the train and reviewed the bidding, it appeared she had just given up on me and included the slice of cake for free.

the hard-earned prinsesstårta

the hard-earned prinsesstårta

I was a little disheartened to be reminded how tiring and stressful it can be to feel completely at sea in a transaction. But then I kind of made up for it with my grand success of train-ticket communication on the way home: the same conductor as the hour before said my punched ticket would have expired by now, and I said no it gets 90 minutes, and he looked at its datestamp and his watch and cheerily okayed it. So then I was reminded that the successes can feel just as disproportionate.

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The enormous suitcase

Thanks again to the several friends who responded to my FB appeal for “a large suitcase you don’t need to see for a year.” The one I ended up borrowing has the distinction of being large enough to fit me inside it, while staying about an inch under the total maximum dimensions for SAS checked baggage (29+21+11 = 61″, max allowed = 62″). The trick, therefore, is to keep it also within the weight guidelines (50 lbs max, of which the suitcase itself takes about 16).

lydia in the suitcase

curled up in the suitcase

lydia in the suitcase

a little better fit this way

Aaaaaand the verdict is: nope, not unless Mills comes to the rescue by adopting heavy objects into his checked backpack. Which happily, he does! And all our assembled bags — the humongo-suitcase, Mills’s modest pack extra-stuffed with heavy-ish things (while the giant suitcase goes at least a third empty), one knapsack apiece, a 5-string fiddle, and a nyckelharpa — fit handily into the little Insight.

the Insight all packed

Ursula & Norbert wave from the back of the Insight

The last remaining transport hurdle was to get both instruments on board safely without challenge. Mills carried the fiddle. I printed out a copy of this handy article describing the relevant FAA ruling of Feb 2012, in case of emergency. But when it came to it, we just gave ourselves pre-boarding status by joining the line a bit before our row was called, and didn’t even get a raised eyebrow in response. Whew!

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Let the adventures begin!

We have landed! Mills and I had a successful voyage, and are now happily ensconced in my room at ESI. Though he has the good sense to be asleep at the moment.

My primary purposes for this blog, at the moment, are two: (1) to keep friends/family apprised of how things are going here, post some photos, tell some stories, and (2) to create an archive of what I learned during the long arduous process of preparing to study abroad, in the hope of helping others who follow.

Although in the obvious sense my adventure begins today with our arrival in Sweden, I’ve been preparing so intensely for this arrival for so many weeks/months that I have a huge backlog of material I’ve been wanting to collate here. My friend Lane kept a blog about attending this same course a couple of years ago, and I found her notes very helpful during my planning process. I’d like to share the fruits of my own web sleuthing and logistics-wrangling as well.

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