Eric Sahlström’s 100th birthday in Uppsala

Jubileumsdagar
Saturday’s packed agenda began with the 11am dedication of a museum exhibit about Eric at the Upplandsmuseet, in an upstairs room with central spiral staircase, a space that was really not designed with extreme overflow in mind. Outside, musicians were assembling for the spelmanståg, though in this case a tåg is a parade rather than a train. We all processed from the museum to the central station, grouped into batches of maybe 30 musicians with the groups spaced a ways apart, to improve our chances both of playing together and of crossing streets safely. We stopped in the main square where we could gather en masse and play a few tunes all together, and then we also gathered for a final few tunes with everyone together at the big square near the station. Much of our route was through pedestrian streets, but at the crossings I did see some entertainingly incredulous drivers who were Not Amused by having to wait for even a partial parade of nyckelharpas.

Here’s a tiny video snippet of Mungalåten, courtesy of Mills and his iPhone.

The rest of the day’s events were held at the Uppsala Konsert & Kongress (UKK). The first concert of the afternoon, I Erics kök (In Eric’s kitchen), was built around the concept of recreating the atmosphere of sitting around a kitchen table, telling stories and playing tunes. It featured an all-star lineup of a couple dozen musical luminaries with stories to tell about Eric. Unfortunately, it was being announced as “all full” by the time we arrived at the building, so we settled in for our picnic lunch instead. After lunch I found that the usual overflow-crowd rules did still apply: you can stand in the doorway, and after a bit it’ll be your turn to edge farther into the room and watch a little. Though, despite mics I was still not really able to hear any of the talking, and the tunes seemed few and far between. So I retained mostly the impression that Eric sure had a gigantic kitchen table!

The centerpiece of the day was the Jubileumsgala concert, which was fabulous. Some solo and duo performances, some interviews of musicians and local politicians by the celebrity host, sets by bands Bazar Blå, Hedningarna, and Väsen, some collages of video footage sent in from afar, and a grand finale featuring a stageful of kids with pint-sized nyckelharpas. It seemed like pretty much all of the best nyckelharpa players in the world made appearances (I hope I’m not inadvertently insulting someone else brilliant who should be springing to mind), and the entire show was skillfully crafted. I kept thinking, hey, we should stay in Sweden for a year and study with these folks!

Thanks to all the many people who worked so hard to bring us a spectacular celebration!

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Eric Sahlström’s 100th birthday in Tobo

Jubileumsdagar
Folks around here have clearly been working hard on preparations for this celebration for months, if not years. Day one was on Friday here in Tobo, and day two was on Saturday at a big venue in Uppsala. Nyckelharpa players came from all over the world, including Japan and the US, and many who couldn’t come sent video greetings (à la YouTube) that were incorporated into the celebration. (Hi, Bronwyn & Sheila & Ben!)

The party in Tobo began with a series of afternoon events by invitation only, for important people like big donors (and not for less important people like tourists/students from America), so we mostly tried to stay out of the way. Instead we got to serve tea and cake to our friends Ingrid and Thomas, who came out from Borås for the weekend. (They were dropping off their son David, who will be in the dance course here for the year.)

The public festivities began with a 7pm concert by Eva Tjörnebo & Viskompaniet, whom I was thrilled to see again since we last heard them on the first (jetlagged) evening of our 2007 trip, and before that I learned a few songs from Eva at the 2005 course in Ekebyholm. I’m looking forward to seeing her again during the school year, since she comes here as a guest lecturer sometimes. In this case they were performing to an overflowing hall that passed the standing-room-only stage at about a quarter to the hour, and had mobs of people standing outside each doorway craning to look in. We lucked out and found room to stand in the back with an unobstructed view. It’s not surprising, I suppose, that an amazing historic event with great musicians and fancy cake and free admission would be a hugely popular occasion, but still we didn’t catch on fast enough to claim seats at whatever early hour would have been required. Several people have said they don’t think we’ve ever had that many people here before.

After kaffe och tårta, the main hall turned into a dance floor and most other spaces turned into buskspel. I managed to miss most of the big dance sets by Trollrike Spelmän and Söderfors Brukskapell, since I was somewhere upstairs playing Sahlström tunes. But during the rest of the evening, I did float through the dance a few times, enjoyed some great players, and got to dance a little with Mills and with Andrea. No photos from me of any of this last part, I’m afraid, since I was all busy. I am learning to ask, when I see a really fabulous player, not “do you know who that is?” but “who is that?”

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Andrea’s here!

She made it! Thanks in part to flying Iceland Air, because it turns out that the customs office there couldn’t care less why you’re going to Sweden or whether your student visa was successfully processed before the office went on summer vacation, and then when you get to Stockholm the Swedish customs desk doesn’t need to talk to you at all because you’ve already been custom-ized.

Andrea and Mills went for a nice walk while I played with computers, and then we all went out to the Mathuset (the only food-related establishment in Tobo) for dinner.

We had a fun evening hanging out with Elin and David, a couple of alumni who came back as volunteers for the weekend to help out with the big birthday bash. Elin was in the dance course last year; David was here a few years ago playing nyckelharpa and fiddle, and has since been in Esbjörn’s harpa-building course. Mills and I baked a small chocolate cake in honor of Andrea’s first day here, since I figured it would be important scientific research to find out whether a store-brand cake mix turned into yummy food. (Yup.)

Andrea's in Tobo!

Andrea’s in Tobo!

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Long day trip to Stockholm

On Tuesday we had a long productive day trip to Stockholm.

We met with Daniel Fredriksson, who plays a nordic mandola made by Ola, and who very kindly agreed to meet with us at his office midday so Mills could try it out and get really great answers to all his questions. Afterward we wandered around Stockholm, found the giant marketplace at Sergels Torg (which stars in our Pimsleur learn-Swedish tapes) and had a very satisfying Indian lunch at Hurry Curry, did some shopping-y errands and scoped out a Myrorna butik (Salvation Army thrift store).

In the evening, we went to visit our friends Gunnar & Lena just south of town. I first met them at the Nisswastämman last summer in MN, and Mills first met Gunnar last month at NFF camp. We very much enjoyed getting to visit with them, and I’m hoping to see more of them throughout the year. Gunnar has an impressive workshop set up to support his fiddle-building habit, which has taken him to the big annual fall meeting in Cremona for the past couple of years, so we enjoyed hearing about tools and techniques and seeing photos. Lena’s half of the beautiful studio room features serious tools for textile work — the most impressive ironing setup I’ve seen, beautiful embroidery, a knitting design project being blocked, and she is also a folkdräkt (costume) expert. Yummy dinner, fun tunes (we each tried out the octave-violin Gunnar had set up), some show-and-tell of CDs we didn’t know about yet.

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Byss-Calle stämman

On the third Sunday in August, the little town of Älvkarleby celebrates its famous historic nyckelharpa player: Carl Ersson Bössa, known as Byss-Calle, who lived from 1783–1847. His tunes are among the best beloved in the nyckelharpa canon.

I hadn’t been intending to perform, but it turned out that really anyone who comes with an instrument is encouraged to spela upp — so with a couple of very broad hints from Leif, I signed up for the last open spot of the afternoon. The rule is, you play three tunes, including at least one by Byss-Calle. Most people seemed to be playing in pairs or small groups. Fortunately our new friends Nils and Satoko, whom we met the previous week in Borås, were willing to help out, so I wouldn’t need to play alone. Though by the time our slot rolled around, we had become a band of 5 people. And also the festivities had nearly wrapped up, since it was raining by then and the interior space isn’t nearly as capacious for impromptu sessions (buskspel) as the entire lawn. Fortunately the performance space had shifted back under the shelter of the barn doorway. Also fortunately, the much diminished audience (only a few hardy souls with umbrellas) meant a diminished likelihood of anyone’s noticing I had just barely learned 2 of our 3 Byss-Calle tunes in the preceding half-hour. Though I’ve become quite fond of the newest one, which I have since been told is #38; I’ve not looked it up yet.

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Drottningholm: the queen’s castle

Gunnar and Maria had the perfect idea for a Saturday outing: Drottningholm, the queen’s castle, is on the other end of the same island, thus right on our way back home through Stockholm. We borrowed their bus passes to get there (and nope, this is not one of the routes where they announce the stops by name, but we managed to make our change despite sitting on the wrong side of the bus to see the sign properly), and the family joined us for a pleasant afternoon of sightseeing in the royal park. Since Maria worked in the gardens there some years ago, we were privileged with insider commentary as well, and a tale of discussing lawnmowing with the king.

There’s a special exhibit on now about the history and care of the royal park, and about shipping produce from there into the market in Stockholm, so there were lots of really cool historical photos and bilingual placards. A favorite snippet, excerpted (and translated) from gardener Ebba Johansson’s diary:

1945, May 7: “WAR OVER! All church bells ringing — weed perennials and cut 700 dahlias.

Other highlights from our afternoon:

  • The castle interior — on second inspection, the grand stone pillars and walls are all artfully painted plaster. Cool! (no photos allowed inside)
  • Fika — we sat in a sunny courtyard for a lovely afternoon snack of waffles and hot chocolate.
  • The Chinese Pavilion — a gift to Queen Lovisa Ulrika in 1753, finished 1769. The several highly ornamented buildings feature ornate dragons fashioned from sheet metal.

At the end of the afternoon, our host family put us on the ferry to Stockholm. We dined in a nice restaurant in Gamla stan (elk meatballs with lingonberries!) before taking the train home to Tobo.

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