Folk music history & Tolfta kyrka

On Wednesday our special guest lecturer was Gunnar Ahlbäck. We spent the morning here at school. We started on the first floor, learning lots of detailed history about the founding of ESI and about some of the various photos and paintings on the first floor. (As well as being a historian, Gunnar is the artist who painted the folk dance scene in our dining room, and the instruments on its serving window.) Then we shifted to the upstairs lecture hall for a comprehensive history of harpas and harpa building, a slide show, and more stories.

In the afternoon, we all went for a field trip to Tolfta, where we studied the depictions of nyckelharpas and other instruments and various Biblical characters on the ornately painted walls and ceiling of the medieval church. (It was built around 1300; the paintings date from the 1600s and 1800s.) He pointed out specific scenes with his flashlight and told the stories they depict. Then he split us into small groups with specific research assignments — we English speakers were grouped together and given an assignment appropriate to our language skills, involving documenting all the musicians depicted in the paintings — and then we all reconvened to present our findings.

I recorded the whole lecture so that in a few months I can be amazed at how much more he taught us than I caught the first time around.

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Harpa maintenance and ergonomics

Monday and Tuesday we worked with Olov. In the mornings we played a fair amount, but also we focused on ways to make our playing and practicing more comfortable and effective. We learned bow exercises and stretches, we talked about different ways to sit and different kinds of harpa straps, and about temperaments and string options and different kinds of bows. Each day we practiced playing the same simple tune in a variety of keys and a couple of different octaves.

In the afternoons, we had an instrument maintenance/repair clinic, which was really interesting. Olov worked on each instrument in turn, so as each new condition came up, we learned some tactics for addressing it. Everyone’s tangents (the piece of the key that touches the string) needed some tuning, but he also changed string placement at the bridge or at the nut (to solve different issues), lowered sympathetic strings at the bridge, removed key-springs, moved bridges and soundposts, and even carved a replacement tangent. My instrument now has its bridge un-leaned by 2mm, tangents tuned, top C string shifted at the bridge, and replacements for the 6 bottom sympathetic strings — though it still needs attention from its maker to replace the top 3 tangents and move the top 3 sympathetics over a little at the bridge. It sure sounds pleased with its tune-up!

On Tuesday between fika and lunch, we joined the dance class to play them our new schottis, and we danced some and they sang some, and we tried out various ways to play the same tune with a dotted swingy flavor (each beat subdivided into triplets) or straighter (duple).  My candidate for trickiest exercise: walk on the off-beats (2 and 4) while playing a schottis.

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Väsen in Viksta

Väsen played a free concert last night in Viksta kyrka. Several ESI students have cars, so we all piled into three of the cars and trooped over there. It’s about a half-hour drive.

It was awesome. We are very lucky. I don’t have anything pithy to say but I didn’t want the event to go unobserved.

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Stockholm: Skansen & more new family

It was raining last time I went to Skansen, too. But this time we went for the spelmansstämma there on Saturday — Andrea’s and my first gig in Sweden! Sort of. Musicians get into the park free if they’re planning to play, and ESI paid our train fare there in exchange for taking over a short segment of stage time from someone else who cancelled at the last minute. (A whole lot of people, it turns out, had the sense to stay home out of the rain.) Our brief concert set was an extremely informal affair, with a tiny but very congenial audience, in a nice (dry) space whose primary purpose is to be a natural history museum.

The rest of the afternoon we did a lot of wandering around Skansen, listening to bits of concerts here and there. We heard an amazing couple of tunes by a riksspelman on cowhorn in the big church. We played some tunes with Maria (it turns out the Exec Director of ESI is also an alumna of a year-long fiddle course with Mats Berglund), and I joined in the session at the Folkets Hus briefly on our way by. At the end of the afternoon I wanted to go visit the moose, so we ended up doing a little zoo tour to watch the bears and the lynx cubs and various other critters.

After meeting my cousin Udo a couple of weeks ago, I was really looking forward to meeting his brother. The last-minute timing of our day-trip to town made it improbable, but Peter actually was able to come into the city from Sollentuna to meet us for dinner. We had a great trilingual conversation — speaking Latvian is a great rest for me after working so hard as a beginner in Swedish — and we all enjoyed getting acquainted. We also enjoyed the Thai buffet that Mills and I learned about on our previous rainy-day trip to Skansen (hi, Gustaf!). I am afraid that what with our scootling for the train afterward, we managed to miss the photo opp altogether, but I’m sure we’ll see each other again pretty soon.

Saturday was my highest snail-count of any day so far. The bike/foot path from ESI to the Tobo train station, about a 20-minute walk (15-16 if you’re in a hurry), is a great place to practice counting in Swedish, because there are almost always enough snails and slugs to merit counting. Slugs are sniglar (one is en snigel), and snails are skalsniglar (shell slugs). On the way to the station at about 11am, I counted 52 snails, and on the way home at about midnight, I counted 64.

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First week of school

Our course has begun! Everyone was here in time for Wednesday lunch, right on schedule. The rest of Wednesday was orientation, mostly in Swedish but with some of the general info about staff & facilities in English. We opened with a slängpolska demo (Olov on fiddle, Ditte on ‘harpa, Ami and Andreas dancing), and later Ditte and Olov played another tune on ‘harpas — one of my favorites from the concert on Saturday, in fact, so I hope that means we’ll all be playing it soon too.

When we split up into our two courses, we musicians met with Ditte and Olov upstairs in the music room to talk about how the instrumental course will work. It got a little complicated while they were describing to us the details in a pair of schedule documents that only they had copies of so far, but I don’t think I missed any really big pieces of the proceedings. We got some gentle encouragement to stay in Swedish as much as possible to learn faster, and not to let our Swedish classmates switch over to English for us — we are advised to request, “Kan du tala svenska, s’il vous plaît?”

Altogether the instrumental course has 9 nyckelharpa players (several of whom also play fiddle) and 2 fiddlers. The dance course has 6 members. We have folks from Finland, Germany, England, the US (just me & Andrea), and of course Sweden. I’d like to write a little more about who’s here and introduce you to our classmates, but I haven’t talked with everyone yet about this whole blog idea.

Today was our first day of real class, so we finally got to play! We met all morning with Sonia Sahlström — we talked some and listened lots, did some exercises with posture and bow holds, talked about local and upcoming events, learned two tunes and recorded two more as extras. An action-packed session! Then, in the afternoon it was time for us to teach each other some tunes, so we added three more tunes and reviewed the whole collection to date.

After afternoon fika (coffee break, and yes there’s a morning one too), we went for a guided tour walking around Tobo with a local guide. It was a lovely sunny day and he pointed out places related to the local factory (originally an ironworks) and to famous musicians, and told what were probably really interesting stories. I am afraid that even with the translation help of one of our classmates, a whole lot of the content went right past me, but it was a very nice walk.

However, I was very pleased to discover during the morning that Sonia speaks so clearly, and I think must have a lot of practice at choosing simpler words for the benefit of language beginners, that I actually understood large swaths entirely! I just looked up the occasional word in google-translate from my phone as we went, and wasn’t lost at all. But then suddenly there’d be a flicker or something and I would discover that I no longer had any idea what we were talking about. I’m not sure whether that’s because we ventured too far outside my vocabulary, or my brain just got tired of focusing for too many consecutive minutes, or what. But it’s still very encouraging that at least some of the time, I feel like I’m kind of getting the hang of it! Or maybe only when we talk about music and playing nyckelharpa and local people/places I’ve learned about before?

Tomorrow both courses meet together all day to dance!

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Mills’s last day

Yesterday we went into Uppsala for the afternoon, on Mills’s last day before he had to fly home. Andrea and I had a few errands to do, but mostly we went for a walk around town and looked at fun things. We checked out the well stocked Myrorna thrift store, where Andrea bought a nice soft floral duvet cover and I got a couple of promising-looking children’s books in Swedish. We went to a toy store, where they had many fun Moomin toys and where we each bought a deck of cards that’s designed as a tool for teaching little kids their alphabet, but which works just as well for teaching big kids the Swedish names of cute cartoon animals. We investigated some options for getting Andrea a Swedish cell phone. Mills perused some real estate listings for great apartments he could buy in Uppsala, for not-exactly-cheap — because, hey, ya never know.

The best part of our outing was that Mills took us out to dinner at the upscale restaurant Peppar Peppar, on a tip from Elin (who attended culinary school before she attended the dance course here). Our meal was exquisite. We aren’t sure whether we now officially like reindeer, or only when it’s prepared by the best chef in Uppsala. Mills proclaimed the duck the best he had ever eaten. Overall it was a fitting celebration, and a memorable occasion.

This morning I walked Mills to the Tobo station for the 7:41 train, and watched my flight-tracker map his progress across the ocean. He’s safely landed in NJ now, visiting tonight with Kathy & Spence before driving my little car home tomorrow.

Y’all take good care of him over there while I’m away, OK?

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